How to Choose a Budget Sailing Boat (Without Getting Burned)
Looking for a budget sailing boat? Learn how to set a realistic budget, spot hidden problems, choose the right design, and avoid the classic money-pit mistakes that sink first-time buyers.
1. Before You Shop: Get Clear on Your Real Goal
You’re not actually shopping for “a boat.”
You’re shopping for what you want to do with that boat.
Start with these questions:
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Where will you sail?
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Lakes and rivers? Protected coastal waters? Offshore passages?
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How long will you stay aboard?
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Day trips, weekends, 2–3 week cruises, or full-time liveaboard?
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How many people regularly?
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Solo, couple, family, plus occasional friends?
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What’s your sailing style?
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Slow and comfy? Performance-oriented? Minimalist and simple?
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Write this down. That “missions list” will guide every decision.
Example:
“We want a safe, simple, 30–34 ft boat for coastal cruising, mostly a couple plus sometimes two guests, with enough storage to live aboard for a few months at a time.”
That makes it much easier to ignore boats that don’t fit, no matter how pretty the listing photos are.
2. Decide Your Total Budget (Not Just Purchase Price)
This is where most people get burned: they only look at the advertised price of the boat.
For budget sailing, think in three buckets:
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Purchase price
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Immediate refit & essential upgrades (Year 1–2)
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Ongoing yearly running costs
A rough starting rule you’ll hear from experienced sailors:
👉 Expect to spend 10–30% of the purchase price in the first couple of years on catching up deferred maintenance and safety upgrades.
So if you can afford $50,000 total, a safer plan might be:
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Purchase price: $35,000–40,000
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Refit/repairs in first 1–2 years: $5,000–10,000+
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Keep a buffer for surprises: $5,000+
If you blow your entire kitty on the purchase itself, you’ll have a beautiful dock queen that you can’t afford to make seaworthy.
3. Small and Simple Wins the Budget Sailing Game
For a budget sailing boat, size and complexity are everything.
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Every extra foot of length adds cost to:
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Haul-outs
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Dockage/marina fees
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Bottom paint
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Rigging and sails
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Every extra system (generator, watermaker, complex electronics) is:
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More to maintain
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More to repair
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More to pay someone else for if you’re not DIY
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For most budget-conscious sailors, a sweet spot is often:
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Trailer-sailers & small keelboats (18–26 ft) for day sailing and short trips
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Cruisers (27–35 ft) for coastal cruising and part-time liveaboard
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Simple 32–38 ft boats for long-term/liveaboard cruising, if you’re committed and realistic
Key principle:
Buy the smallest, simplest boat that still fits your mission.
It’s cheaper to sail, maintain, and actually use.
4. Picking the Right Type of Budget Sailing Boat
Once you know your mission, you can think about hull and keel types.
4.1 Keel & Hull Options (in plain English)
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Fin keel, spade rudder
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Often faster and more responsive
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Popular for modern cruisers and racer/cruisers
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Slightly more vulnerable rudder if you hit something hard
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Long keel / full keel
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Tracks well and feels “solid”
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Often better directional stability downwind
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Usually slower to tack and maneuver, and may have deeper draft
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Bilge keel / twin keel
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Can dry out upright (handy in tidal areas)
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Often a good choice for shallow, tidal cruising grounds
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Usually not as fast to windward as deep fin keel boats
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Shoal draft / centerboard
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Get you into shallow anchorages
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Great for areas full of sandbars and shoals
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Some designs trade off upwind performance for shallow draft
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4.2 Construction: Fiberglass vs. the Rest
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Fiberglass (GRP)
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Most common, easiest to find
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Good older designs available at reasonable prices
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Steel
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Good impact resistance
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Must be very well maintained to avoid corrosion issues
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Aluminium
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Light and strong, often expensive and more specialized
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Wood
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Beautiful, but can be a maintenance-heavy money pit if neglected
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For a typical budget sailor, a simple fiberglass production boat with a strong reputation and good support community is often the safest choice.
5. Age, Design, and the “Classic Plastic” Sweet Spot
Many great budget sailing boats are older production models from the 1970s–1990s — sometimes called “classic plastic”.
Advantages:
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Proven, time-tested designs
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Plenty of information and owner groups
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Spares and advice generally easy to find
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Prices can be very reasonable
Trade-offs:
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Systems may be very outdated or neglected
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Original rigging, wiring, or hoses may be past safe life
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Cosmetics may be rough (which is okay if structure is sound)
Design matters more than age.
A 40-year-old, well-regarded design that’s been cared for is often a better buy than a 20-year-old obscure boat in poor condition.

6. Red Flags and Money-Pit Warning Signs
This is where you avoid getting burned.
6.1 Structural & Safety Red Flags
If you see these, proceed very cautiously (or walk away):
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Major soft spots or delamination in deck or hull
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Serious osmosis/blistering beneath the waterline
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Sagging or cracked bulkheads (especially beneath chainplates)
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Visible cracks or distortion around the keel/hull joint
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Evidence of a hard grounding (bent keel bolts, cracked interior structure)
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Corroded, cracked, or obviously ancient standing rigging
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Badly corroded engine mounts or structural motor issues
You can fix almost anything with enough time and money, but these items can blow up a budget very quickly.
6.2 Condition Red Flags (Non-Structural, But Expensive)
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Original rigging on a 30+ year-old boat
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Old, rotten chainplates hidden behind cabinetry
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Leaky windows / hatches / deck fittings with interior staining
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Dead electronics and spaghetti wiring
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Very old sails with lost shape and patches everywhere
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Engines that:
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Smoke excessively
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Are “cold” when you arrive (owner pre-warmed them)
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Have mystery leaks or lots of rusty water marks in the bilge
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You might still buy a boat with some of these issues — as long as you budget for fixing them and use them as leverage to negotiate the price.
7. Must-Do Step: Get an Independent Survey
On anything beyond a very small, cheap daysailer, a professional survey is not optional for budget sailors — it’s damage control.
7.1 Why You Need a Survey
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Confirms the boat is structurally sound
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Identifies hidden problems (moisture, delamination, bad repairs)
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Provides a realistic picture of near-future work
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Helps with insurance and financing
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Gives you negotiation leverage
7.2 Choosing the Right Surveyor
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Use a reputable, independent surveyor (not the broker’s “mate”)
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Look for someone experienced with your boat type and cruising area
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Be there in person if you can, and ask questions as they inspect
7.3 Use the Survey as a To-Do List
After you get the report:
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Highlight safety-critical items (must fix now)
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Estimate rough costs for each major job
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Re-check your budget and decide:
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Still a go at the asking price?
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Worth it only at a lower price?
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Or time to walk away?
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Walking away after a survey is not a failure — it’s often your biggest financial win.
8. The Viewing & Sea Trial Checklist
When you go to see a potential budget sailing boat, bring:
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Notepad or phone notes
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Camera (take photos of everything)
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Clothes you don’t mind getting dirty
8.1 On the Dock or Hard Stand
Check:
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Overall impression: clean and cared for, or neglected and grimy?
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Deck: soft spots, cracks around fittings, leaks, crazy DIY holes
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Standing rigging: corrosion, cracked swages, bent turnbuckles
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Running rigging: lines stiff, frayed, clearly ancient?
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Sails: age, repairs, UV damage, shape
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Hull: blisters, dings, signs of poor repairs, keel joint
8.2 Inside the Boat
Look and sniff:
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Smell: strong mould, diesel, or sewage odours?
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Bilges: dry or swampy? Any oil or rusty water?
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Signs of leaks: staining under windows, around deck fittings, hull/deck joint
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Wiring: neat and labelled or chaos and twisted pairs?
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Plumbing: freshwater & toilet systems, hoses, clamps, seacocks condition
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Engine: hours (if real), leak marks, general cleanliness, cooling hoses
8.3 Sea Trial (If You Get That Far)
Watch:
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Does the engine start easily? Any scary smoke or noises?
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Does the boat steer straight and feel “solid”?
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Sails hoist cleanly? Winches and clutches operate smoothly?
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Any nasty vibrations under power?
Make notes right away after the trial — it’s easy to forget details later.
9. Negotiating Without Letting Emotions Take Over
You’ve found a promising budget sailing boat. Now it’s time to protect your wallet.
9.1 Set a Walk-Away Number
Before you start negotiating:
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Decide your absolute maximum total spend, including survey and repairs
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Work backwards to a reasonable offer range
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Promise yourself you’ll walk away if it goes beyond your number
9.2 Use Facts, Not Feelings
When you make an offer:
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Refer to survey findings and known issues
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Mention comparable boats and market conditions
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Keep it friendly but firm
Example script:
“The survey picked up original rigging, older sails, and some moisture in the deck. By my estimate, that’s at least $X in the next year or two. I’d be comfortable at $Y, subject to us resolving [specific item].”
If the seller can’t or won’t move, don’t fall into “just a bit more” creep. There is always another boat.
10. Paperwork, Registration, and Ownership Checks
Boring but crucial. Don’t skip this stuff on a budget boat.
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Proof of ownership:
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Check title/registry documents match hull numbers and engine numbers
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No outstanding loans or liens:
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In some countries you can search a registry; elsewhere, ask for evidence or use a lawyer/agent
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Previous bills of sale & VAT/Tax documents (if relevant)
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Builder’s plate or hull ID matches paperwork
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Insurance requirements:
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Some insurers demand a survey newer than X years
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If anything feels weird or incomplete, pause. Sorting out bad paperwork after money has changed hands can be a nightmare.
11. Common Budget Sailing Boat Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
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Buying too big
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Result: constant money stress and unfinished projects
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Fix: choose a size that you can easily maintain and actually sail
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Skipping the survey to “save money”
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Result: expensive hidden problems that cost far more than the survey
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Fix: always get a survey, or accept you’re gambling
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Letting cosmetics fool you
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Result: shiny cushions hiding rotten bulkheads
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Fix: prioritize structure, rig, and engine over looks
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Underestimating refit costs
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Result: broke and stuck on the dock
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Fix: add a generous buffer to every refit estimate
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Not being willing to walk away
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Result: overpaying for a boat with serious issues
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Fix: set a walk-away number beforehand and stick to it
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12. Making Your Budget Sailing Boat Truly “Yours”
Once you’ve found your boat and done the basics:
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Tackle safety first
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Rigging, engine reliability, through-hulls, anchors
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Fix major leaks
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Deck, hatches, windows, chainplates
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Simplify systems where possible
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Remove redundant or broken gear you don’t need
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Add low-cost comfort upgrades
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Good bedding, fans, LED lights, shade, storage solutions
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Remember: you don’t need Instagram perfection to have amazing adventures. You need a safe, sound hull, decent sails, and a willingness to go.
13. Your Next Steps
To put this all into action:
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Write your mission statement
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Where, how, and with whom you’ll sail
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Define your total budget
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Purchase + refit + buffer
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Shortlist 3–5 suitable designs
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Boats that match your mission and budget
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View multiple boats
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Take notes and photos, don’t rush
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Survey the serious contender
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Use the results to negotiate or walk away
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A good budget sailing boat isn’t the cheapest one you can find.
It’s the boat that safely matches your dream, your skills, and your wallet.